Trains, planes , motor vehicles and sled dogs.

I almost didn't go down there--it is off a bridge across a kind of slough but it was well worth my time.It is called The Museum of Transportation and Industry and sits about a mile off the Parks Highway or Alaska 1 here just north of Wasilla. There must be twenty acres or so and one big steel garage/hanger sort of building but most of the best stuff is outside except for a few antique cars housed indoors. But wow, there are a number of airplanes since aviation played a huge role in the state's development in the post WW II period.There is also quite a bit of Alaska RR rolling stock to include about four locomotives and several assorted cars and some maintenance equipment, all retired and of various vintages. Then there are lots of the early "Iron Dogs" or snow machines, farm equipment, and autos of many types. It is amazing, really. I took quite a lot of photos and it will take some time to sort them out. It was a really fun place to wonder around even if walking through grass and weeds has given me a bad case of allergy eyes this evening. Hopefully that will clear up with generous use of drops. So should you ever get up this way I recommend this highly.

But of course I am here for the huskies and I did that today as well.  First I went back out to the ITC Hqs. I talked a bit more to Barb Redington and was quite surprised she recalled me from the brief visit on Sunday. She and I think her father-in-law (need to verify this) were again unloading dogs for the rides and busy but we got in some chatting. I also took a ride this time behind eight of the dogs--who were rearing to go in typical sled dog style. They just go about a mile on a track through the woods behind the gift shop and all. From the feel of the wind in my face I'd say they move as fast as a brisk trot or easy lope on a horse. In short, moving right along.

After that I went up to the gift shop and talked to Donna Olson some more and showed her my first mule article but busses were coming inand she did not have much time. There were two with touring Korean families. Apparently they got a lot of them since Rose and Donna and also Barb Redington have learned a few words to speak to them as not all have much English, clearly. It still felt very special to be there!

Then this afternoon I went out to Martin Buser's Happy Trails Kennels and got the tour--not too many there and very low key and casual. Born in Switzerland, he is very charming and nice. Speaks with a slight subtle accent but very articulate. I got there early--you know me--and he chatted some and let me look at the dogs. His son  Rohn, named for one  of the checkpoints BTW, did a lot of the talk and demo. He has won Jr Iditarod, run the big race twice and is now building his own team. He hopes to be a serious competitor in about two years. Nice and articulate young man. But Dad says he babies the dogs too much! I got a chuckle at that. I suspect Martin is all business when it comes to real mushing.

I might point out that most of these folks are far from the image of  unschooled unwashed sourdoughs. Whether formal schooling or not, they can "meet and greet" and are very much into scientific and medical research and such to improve their dogs and the breed in general.  This stuff is big business.

Busers have a bed and breakfast, do demos and tours and some dogs are in Juneau where helpers give cart rides with them. They also had two litters of pups--nine about ready to wean--maybe 6-8 weeks and four just two weeks old. Of course guests love puppies and these dogs are well socialized. Redingtons had two pups there also again I'd guess 2-3 weeks old.

I  took lots of pictures but have not downloaded and sorted them yet so may post this and add them later. Anyway, another productive and interesting day. Most of tomorrow goes to getting to Fairbanks and getting settled in.

Networking and Connections

This has been a very positive and progressive day. It's all about networking and reaching out to people with warmth and sharing, a willingness to be open and the connections form, link and grow.I was once too shy to do this but it comes easy now and talking with folks on a shared passion makes it easier!

First, as planned, I met with Lisbet Norris, the third generation of Norwegian folks who came to the US and to Alaska back probably during WWII or even before. Her grandparents started the first Siberian Husky kennel way back in the 40s  first down near Kenai and later on a homestead near Willow. They're part of history. Her mother came over from Norway specifically to mush and Lisbet herself has been in Norway and worked in the sport there. She is a very intelligent and articulate young woman and impressed me very much. She said she kind of always knew she'd race but took time to go to college and travel some, learn and grow. Very wise!! Now she'd ready to really dig in to it.

She was a rookie in the challenging 2014 Iditarod

and came in with the final three, just ahead of Marcelle Fressineau who won the Red Lantern.They had traveled much of the race together, three rookies just getting the feel of it. Even so, the time of the three for the race was faster than that of winners back twenty years ago or so. They followed Deedee Jolnrowe's advice to make the rookie run a learning experience and just to experience it with no pressure.

In Lisbet's opinion the biggest difference in the time is the trail. Because the Iron Dog snow machine race is not long before the Iditarod and basically over the same trail, it is beaten down and much more clear and solid than the old days of breaking deep snow and trying to find those illusive markers that may have been buried or blown away. Rarely is breaking deep snow an issue now--even when and where there is snow! Which was scarce over parts of the trail the last two years.

I even met one of her dogs, a two year old female name Mika or Meeka (not sure on this but that was what it sounded like). Lisbet told me this was one pup from an experimental accidental litter she has been working with and this one has become her bed-sleeping pet. Mika is shy like Ginger but finally condescended to take a few treats from my hand while Lisbet held her. She's a beautiful dog, still a lanky "teenager" and Lisbet is not sure if she'll make a team dog or not but will probably give her some chances when the training season gets underway this fall. She says they differ greatly in personality but many "Sibes"  are quite independent and not really wanting to be pets.

I also got a tour of the feed store her family runs, mostly dog stuff, and a good lecture on nutrition. Her father has compiled a formula which he has produced in the Midwest and shipped in that compromises between top quality and cost so the budget pressed mushers can afford it, not the best but definitely in the "better" level than your average commercial kibble.While I was there a couple of customers came in and bought that or other more costly brands and I chatted with one lady who is a musher but not a racer and hosts some of the Iditarod folks who come to train and prepare, especially the Norwegians as I think she is also of that ancestry.She too seemed very excited about my project and will be a good contact and perhaps a help in time.For the most part these are all wonderful people and very open and supportive if you are 'with them' in this special endeavor.

Later I did a little more tourist stuff--drove out to Palmer which is closer to the mountains and very pretty--there is a gorgeous garden in the middle of town that I took some pix of and then I visited the Dorothy Paige museum in Wasilla. She along with Joe and Viola Redington was instrumental in getting the  recognition of the trail and the race to begin back in the early 1970s. She must have been a fighter!

Thoughts on an August evening

Iditarod.

It’s a place—once a town but no longer, a trail, a race and for the real devotees, a way of life. The “mushers” may come from many places and follow many professions but somehow this strange sport and custom of driving a sled over the frozen northlands behind a pack of dogs grabs certain folks and changes them forever. It becomes much more than a hobby or avocation. It’s their passion, perhaps the real focus, purpose and direction of their lives.

I have to admit that were I twenty years younger, I would very likely be looking for a way to stay in Alaska and seeking a mentor to help me learn and train and be able someday to do this myself. Yes, I’d like to follow my team across a thousand miles of wilderness through cold and snow and blizzards to finally pass beneath the burled arch in Nome that marks the end. Just to prove something to myself and get that sense of supreme achievement. Anyone who finishes is a champion, time notwithstanding.  The last one through gets the “Red Lantern” award, but this is an award, not a booby prize or a sneer.  Just to finish is a rare accomplishment.

Yesterday I toured the Iditarod Trail Committee headquarters and saw the bronze statue of the late Joe Redington and his dogs. I snapped a “selfie” in front of the sign proclaiming the place for what it is. I watched a video titled Why Do They Run? I got a little teary eyed in places. That’s how powerful this all can be. I felt an eerie sense of walking on sacred ground. True, probably few of the great names in the past have been there but some have. And there I was…

To run this race requires a fierce determination, sacrifice and struggle and dogged, unflagging persistence. It cannot be done in a day; not the preparation or the race itself. Although modern technology and the commercialization of the event have made it a bit more civilized, maybe slightly safer than it was back in 1973 when the first formal race was run, there are still stretches where you are all alone out there with nature. You could die and not be found for some time. Although you have to be the driver, you also have to trust and believe in your team. You and they are all a team and as multi-race veteran and three time second place runner Aliy Zirkle says, you are the seventeenth dog, the weakest one.

I grew up riding and training horses and mules to serve as cowponies and to carry me and others into and back out of some of the rougher and more remote parts of Arizona. At the time it was much less developed and civilized land than it is today. From that experience I understand a bit of this bond of human and animal and the trust and synthesis that develops. I had mules make their way off dangerous mountains and canyons where a misstep could plunge us down a steep, rocky slope or even off a sheer cliff. Maybe it was dark or raining or bitter wind. I trusted that animal to be sure footed and careful, I too watched but he or she made the way. So in part I can identify with the incredible connection these mushers have with their dogs. I saw a poster today that read, “God made dogs so mushers could have heroes.”  That feels very authentic.

Not too many folks these days get to experience this kind of thing. City life may let us have a pampered pet—most too fat and under exercised, just as we are. We and they may have a bond but it is not the same. The mutual dependence is not there, at least the life-or-death kind. This is part of what makes the race and others similar so unique and so special.

Alaska may be called the last frontier. Like other places to include my beloved southwest high desert, it has grown and become urbanized and artificial in places. Anchorage could be any city anywhere this time of year. Wasilla is much the same. But you drive a few miles beyond that and you are perhaps not quite back in the gold rush milieu but not so different. The weather is one big factor, the rugged mountains and so on. Parts of some of the western and mountain states in the lower forty-eight retain areas of this but Alaska is so big, so remote and still essentially new.

It simply has a different ethos, a different atmosphere. You love it or hate it. I admit the desert rat in me and the solar powered spirit within would suffer from the weather but were it not for that, I’d migrate. I really would. I’m still basically a frontier person, independent and misfitting in a city environment. 

So I am drawn to Iditarod, all of its definitions and aspects. That’s why I want to write about it. There may well be more than one book before I am done. And yes, when I go home on August 18, I truly believe that I will be back.

Still enthralled

I am still amazed at Alaska in general. And I've only seen a smidgen of it so far. The woods are so thick you can't see 100 yards in many places. That is a bit claustrophobic but novel. Pretty wild flower in places. I got a few pix.

Had a very brief chat with Deedee Jonrowe. She is up to her backside in alligators pretty much and I really sympathize with her. So I went on up the highway to Talkeetna, an old mining town and now pretty much a tourist trap. Did all the gift shops and the museum. Got a few souvenirs/presents and took a few train related pix for my brother. They do some rail tours from there up to the Denali Park.

I saw a poster I would love to have bought but it was too pricey It said "God made dogs so mushers would have heroes." Isn't that really cool? I did take a photo of it. Also got some fabric with sled dogs for my long-delayed special little quilt.So it was a pretty good trip today.

Wednesday I do a tour of Martin Buser's kennels near here. He is a multiple Iditarod winner and his sons are now racing. He spoke on that video I saw at the ITC HQs the other day and I was quite impressed. Not sure what I will do tomorrow but we'll see.

Here is a few flower pictures. The magenta is fireweed I think and not sure the white, too heavy for Queen Anne's Lace. And the jagged peaks are across the inlet from Wasilla. Now those are mountains, eth? But nothing to Denali. Oh I learned Susan Butcher and Joe Reddington scaled  Denali with a small dog team and sled! Now the park service won't allow so no one will ever do that again. It was quite a feat. Took them over three weeks and bad weather almost got them.

Oh wow!

This day turned out fine despite being off and on rainy,more so in the morning. I planned to go to Palmer, town to the east of Wasilla and up to the Independence Mine but decided it was not a good day for that asI wanted good light for outdoor pictures. So instead I headed back out Knik Goose Bay road and stopped at the Iditarod Headquarters.

 It was early and two pickup trucks were unloading some dogs with the normal pandemonium. It was the Reddingtons, father and son (son and grandson of the famous Joe Reddington who was pretty much the father of the recognition of the historical value of the trail and instrumental in the race as part of that effort.) I chatted a few minutes but they were busy. I didn't try pix as it was gray and drizzly. May go back. Young Raymie Reddington gives rides to visitors with a wheeled vehicle such as they use to train dogs in the summer. Two bus loads of tour groups arrived soon and I got out of the way. I went on over to the museum and gift shop building and began to talk with two ladies there.

Turns out Donna Olson, whose husband ran in some of the early races, now lives in Glenwood, NM just up the road a bit from Gila/Cliff where Joe Runyan lives. But is an active supporter to include working there in the summer. She is also a big mule fan!! This is amazing--mules and sled dogs as burning interests in several folks and links from New Mexico to Alaska!.She gave me the name and number of the volunteer coordinator who is up in Fairbanks right now at the state fair but will be back the middle of next week. I hope to catch her before I leave.  (hee hee, my timing is way off!) I got a few souvenir and research things and saw the video they've done called Why Do They Run.

If you have any doubts about the dogs and their care or their real love for doing what they do, this will dispel them. All dogs have better nutrition available now because of studies done for the huskies and many more advances are in progress. I got teary of course. Not for the first time; I got a photo of the sign and the stature of Reddington and really had the almost eerie feeling that I was walking on sacred ground. People are so passionate about this stuff and I more and more come to understand why. I also came away from the film with more respect and admiration for a few of the male  mushers I had been inclined to think not so well of. They showed sides I had no clue existed. It was all a powerful quasi-spiritual experience.

Then in the afternoon I visited the museum on the former townsite of Knik (K is not silent) and met another neat lady. She is part Arapaho and grew up with horses as her parents farmed back in the northern midwest and some in Alaska, I gathered. Knik was a booming town in the gold rush before Anchorage or Wasilla came to be but is now a  shadow with a few ruins and a few restored old buildings, of which the museum is one. Upstairs there is housed the Iditarod Hall of Fame, another pretty awe inspiring place even if in a bit of disarray and not well kept up. This is more due to lack of funds than care and wishes I am sure.

Anyway, this lady, Diane Williams and I had a great visit as I was the only person there for the afternoon. The downstairs was full of antiques and relics of the 1880-1920 period or so and again in a bit of disarray.I wish I had about $250,000 and a helper or two and we'd whip that place into shape but the modern area is under the management of a local Native Tribe who struggle to keep it going and are way down the totem pole in getting the support and funds they need. I may make a cause of this!!

So it was an amazing day and moving in a lot of ways. Now I need to call Deedee Jonrowe, who is an amazing lady also. She emailed me back and has been having family health issues which have been difficult and demanding but she hopes to see me Monday or Tuesday if I can get to Willow,  about thirty miles up the highway in the direction of Denali and Fairbanks. Once that is nailed down I will see what else I may be able to do before Thursday morning and my flight to Fairbanks.

Progressing slowly--but lots of atmosphere!

It is a pretty sunny day with some clouds but rain is predicted for several starting tomorrow. My hostess is off on her little adventure. I ended up getting a rental car since her son and his buddy work in Anchorage part time and the buddy's car is bad order right now so they have to use hers. I can't afford to be stranded here ten miles from town and unable to go meet people so I got a car--a brand new Ford Focus with just over 12K miles  on it. Very nice. I did a little sight seeing just to get used to it and got a few pictures  looking across Knik Arm  toward the mountains that I will share in a bit. I left my cell phone here charging so cut short any further exploration.

I'm waiting to hear from the Berrington sisters and Deedee Jonrowe. Learned yesterday that the teacher--maybe grade 2 or 3--of one of Gail's neighbor's children plans to run the race this year.I doubt I will be able to speak to her but maybe that will be for next time, I'm learning this trip and already see another one in the future to do this book justice. Yeah, it looks like that may be necessary. I won't complain!!

So not a lot more news to report. I'm compiling museums and attractions to squeeze in since I can now drive myself to them  over the next four days--a drive to nearby Palmer tomorrow and maybe to the closest mountain pass just so I can say I did that LOL and get more 'real' Alaska looking photos. It's warm today but you can already sense a hint of fall in the evening and I know summer is very short here. It's a fact that everyone works their lives around.

A quick trip to Walmart for a few things--Walmarts and Walmartians are pretty much the same anywhere. they wear more cammo etc. here than some places but some halter tops and shorts too. Heck, it is almost 70 today and that is summer in Alaska. I was wearing a flannel shirt-jacket over my t-shirt; bet everyone knew I was from the lower 48 LOL. But my debit card works here just like at home..I guess modern tech is good for some things,

I heard from Bro Charlie that it has rained over two inches since I left.Yikes. And Jim said the theater where his grand daughter was to appear in Annie was flooded in the basement dressing rooms etc so  not sure if the show will go on or not, Kinda scary stuff but our house is all right and dogs survived, I guess I had to leave for it to rain!

Well, I am just rambling so enough for now. Here are a few Alaska-ish shots for y'all. The water is salt, an arm of the long inlet that Anchorage sets near the end of. It's name comes from the fact that sea-going vessels could anchor there somewhat out of the fierce winds and storms of the open sea. The mountains are higher than they look, too! South is to the right in all three shots.  BTW still no bears or moose. But did see some geese or swans flying around the lake early today and heard loons and some other bird that shrieks. That is North Woods stuff, anyway!

A few pics and small update

I'm still setting things up. I found out the ITC Headquarters is open seven days a week so I may visit there tomorrow or Monday. Also Anna Berrington, one of the racing twins, lives very near there  so it is likely I will meet the two of them there since it is easy to find. I've emailed Deedee Jonrowe and have a phone number now if that does not get a response. Willow is just about fifteen miles up Alaska 3, the highway I would follow were I going to drive to Fairbanks. That is where she lives so I have expectations of catching her soon. As with many efforts we have some hurry up and wait here.

As part of the fee for my staying here, I will be house sitting for my hostess for a few days while she flies down to the lower forty-eight, Las Vegas to meet a sister and a friend and plan for her upcoming fall wedding to her long term partner. Also keeping some tabs on her two teens who do not need a sitter but an adult to keep things legal and not too crazy but that will not chain me here so long as I come and go a bit randomly and make sure no parties etc.! She will be back the day before I head off to Fairbanks.

Another rather cloudy but mild day and rain farther west/north is not supposed to get here, at least for a few days. So all is well. Below are the pix; not edited since I do not have a program to do much of that on this mini-puter.

The first is a view of the lake and mountains from close to the house here; the second is the promised selfiue of me in the same locale and the next is an afternoon scenic view and then a view of the house, Alaska style modern--no log cabin but a steep roof to shed the snow.They are not placing well; internet is flaky today.The white SUV (a Toyota) is the car I may use. The red one is her son's friend.