This all happened while I was away from the area from 1969 until I finally made a visit back in 2003. I've been back several times since. I still have some of my photos of the old rail yard and depot back in then. circa mid 1960s. At that time the line served chiefly to haul limestone and dry cement to build the Glenn Canyon Dam and to bring a little other freight into the Verde. It was expensive to maintain so there were work crews in almost constantly to clear rock slides, fix bridges and keep the line in service. The area looks far different now and it is a nationally advertised tourist attraction. I do not think there was ever passenger service in the ATSF days but that is now the big winner.
In 2006 I attended a book fair in Prescott and along with a fellow author and her hubby came over to Clarkdale and took a ride! Although I had ridden horse/mule back up about to the SOB Canyon bridge and even pastured some aniamls in a bend between the track and the river,near there I had never been past the old slag dump by railpower.
In short I was mesmerized. The scenery almost defys description and I stood in awe of the engineering feat required to hang a standard gauge track along the sides of a rugged and often narrow canyon--all done in the late 1800s by man and mule power and a few very small primitive machines. That it is safe for a slow speed and not super heavy train today is miraculous but it is. The owners certainly keep a skilled crew to take care of it.
The route winds up under the eastern edge of the craggy white hills that provide limestone for cement even to this day. Then it soon enters the Verde River Box, a narrow basalt walled gorge that carries the river, still a constant flowing stream above ground, a rarity in these dry times. Gradually the track moves past dusty white to tan and then into the beautiful reds for which central Arizona is known, the same colors you could see around Sedona. Sycamore Canyon joins the Verde about 15 miles out. It is a spectacular canyon too, a Grand Canyon in micrcocosm, one could say. Now a wilderness area, it can only be viewd by horse/mule back or on foot but the route shows the mouth and a small bit of it. On you wind, at times looking right down into the river as little as 30 feet below or as much as 200 or so. There are twists and bends and finally a tunnel. Once through it you break out of the canyon and wind up at Perkinsville, where the train stops. That's about twelve miles south frm the Drake junction. This is a pleasant little vale or park like area, once part of a big area ranch with some old corrals and buildings still standing.
Riders are not encouraged to get off although it is about a half hour stop. The locomotives uncouple from the front of the train and pass on a siding to hook up at the opposite end for the return trip. Is it tiresome to go back the same way? It wasn't to me. The difference in the view from midday to late afternoon sun is incredible. You will see things you missed going out and have another chance to see big hawks and even eagles as well as other animals along the way.
There are enclosed regular pasenger cars where some visitors elect to stay but each one has its own open air viewing car with awnings to give some shade since it does get hot up in that closed-in canyon. I opted to spend about 95% of the time on the one for my car and loved every minute of it. I could not look enough to see it all!
I made another trip in the fall of 2017 when I had gone over from NM to Arizona for another high school reunion. I had to miss a day at the old high school in Jerome to make the trip but it was worth it. The first time my digital camera zonked on me and my SLR was slow and clumsy. The last trip I had a good digital and used the heck out of it! I think I downloaded some 150 photos. I erased a few but kept many and still enjoy looking them over. I could go back any time and still enjoy the journey.
The depot and gift shops are well worth an hour or two to see everything too and the well-kept outdoor space and yard are neat and comfy. It is still hard for me to mentally merge the old and the new but both are precious to me in different ways. At any rate, the Verde Canyon Scenic Railroad is Absolutely Arizona for sure and a splendid way to spend a day if you are in that area! I will include some photos here and perhaps do a second post just of pictures to share some more. BTW the date on some of the color photos is wrong; I had to swap batteries and did not have time to reset the calendar!
depot and yard 1965 |
depot and yard 2017 |
Just out of Clarkdale |
Verde River Box |
Red and green contrast-with blue |
Old corral--Perrkinsville |
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